The whiskey market of the pre 1900 west
coast was a tangled web indeed. Partnerships, co-partnerships, agencies, sole
agencies, sole proprietorships, wholesalers, retailers, brand rights, etc. etc.
seem to intertwine companies on a constant basis. It seems that everyone was pushing
this brand or that in hopes of getting a leg up on the competition. And not
just in San Francisco...
Virginia City Nevada (VC as it's fondly called by
many) was past its prime by the time the "gay nineties" rolled around.
A quick glance at the Sanborn map of VC in 1890 shows an abundance of vacant
and abandoned buildings. It also displays a dearth of one type of business
vying for a slice of an ever shrinking pie; Saloons!
South C St. was a mixed bag of occupancies in
1890. The Bonner Shaft of the Gould & Currey Mining Company was just a
couple of blocks downhill, as were the V&T Railroad tracks. South C, below
Smith St. sported the Odd Fellows Lodge, an undertaker, a second hand furniture
store, a cobbler, the Tahoe House (a second rate hotel), a shoe store, and a
myriad of others including the Wells Fargo & Co. offices. Oh, and did I
forget to mention, saloons (lots of saloons)? At 56 South C, a "Madamm
Blizz" plied liquor out of her saloon located on the ground floor of a
three story brick building. Who knows what went on upstairs...
A fella by the name of Frank Douet first shows up
in print in the Gold Hill, Nevada Territory newspaper on a bitter cold day in
January of 1871. The reference is short and to the point, he was departing for
places unknown on the Wells Fargo stage that afternoon.
The next time he is
mentioned in the paper is on March 18, 1882. He'd filed a degree of foreclosure
against a Thomas Buckner.
Nearly ten years later, in 1891, he surfaces once
again, only this time in VC. He, and a gentleman by the name of Alex P. Pion,
announced that they had entered into a partnership and had purchased
"Madamm Blizz" Wine and Liquor Store, and that they had just received
a new shipment of the same.
Stop the presses! Turns out there was a typo in the first advertisement. Corrected, it reads, Madame Suize. And that changes things a bunch. It also reinforces the phrase "tangled web". See the addendum following the main article!
Things appear to have gone swimmingly for them from the start, and they began to advertise on a regular (almost daily) basis.
Ads
for the new endeavor were printed by both the Virginia Evening Bulletin as well
as the Daily Territorial Enterprise (made famous by Mark Twain). By 1893, their
advertisements included cigars, as well as foreign and domestic wines and
liquors.
By then, they also had obtained the agency for Celebrated Pabst Beer
from Milwaukee. Notice though, the ad doesn't state "SOLE agency". I
guess a little bit of a good thing was better than none. 1894 saw a bit of a
name change and the sign out front now read "Comstock Wine House"
(how upscale...). A newspaper ad also declared that they had also obtained the agency
(again - not SOLE agency) for Washoe Soda Works of Reno. They were on a roll!
Another ad in 1894 caught my attention. It was
puffing Hirschler's Celebrated Fruit Brandy; "Distilled from pure
fruit"; (that as opposed to impure rotten fruit I guess~)
All kidding aside, Hirschler & Co. was a
force to be reckoned with in the 90's. They marketed both wine and liquor and
owned their own Summit Vineyards in Napa County. An article which appeared in
the Pacific Wine & Spirit Review of 1890 spoke highly of the firm, it's
vineyards, and especially their brandies.
One of my favorite embossed and labeled fifths is that of Hirchler and Co. This Hirschler tooled cylinder dates to the mid 90's.
The label is nothing short of whimsical. Talk about over the top! Elves standing on elves with a tiny corkscrew trying to get at the magical nectar inside the bottle. My guess is that the lithographer who designed this label, was imbibing of some sort of pre food and drug act substance while "creating"...
One of my favorite embossed and labeled fifths is that of Hirchler and Co. This Hirschler tooled cylinder dates to the mid 90's.
The label is nothing short of whimsical. Talk about over the top! Elves standing on elves with a tiny corkscrew trying to get at the magical nectar inside the bottle. My guess is that the lithographer who designed this label, was imbibing of some sort of pre food and drug act substance while "creating"...
Recently, a close friend of mine gifted me with
what I consider to be one of the scarcest of my seven dozen and change labeled
western whiskies. At first glance, from across the table, I wasn't overly
elated when the bottle came out of the box. Faced with the back side to me, the
distinctive shape told me without even looking at the embossing that it was an
I.W. Harper. Whoopeee........ That was until he spun it around and I spied the
label. Not just any label though, this one read (in addition to I. W. Harper's
Nelson Co. / Kentucky Whiskey)
-------- Douet & Pion / 56 S. C St. / Virginia
City, Nevada!
Some time ago I purchased a pre-pro shot glass
collection. All glasses were from San Francisco with the exception of one; an
IW Harper glass. One can't help but wonder if it didn't see duty on the back
bar of Douet & Pion's saloon, alongside the labeled and embossed cylinder~
By 1895, Douet & Pion's advertising vanished.
However, a look at the Storey County treasury disbursements for both "indigent
bills" and "hospital claims", show that Douet & Pion
regularly received stipends, no doubt for "medicinal whiskey", right on
up to the turn of the century. All references disappear after July 1900, and
one can only guess that the two Frenchman retired and lived out their days in a
more hospitable climate than that which they had endured on the east side of
Mt. Davidson for the past nineteen years.
___________________________
I just received the following info and attachments via email from fellow researcher and author, Eric Costa.
Killer Stuff! And, it wraps everything up into a nice, neat package!
Read On.
Hi Bruce, thought you might enjoy these. I have spent the last 20 yrs. researching the Douets. Frank, or Fransois, first came to the US and worked at his Uncle Andre Douets Winery and Vineyard in Clinton, Amador County.
Andre's partner was Marie Suize, a
woman who dressed as a man and both mined in Amador during the Gold Rush and
opened a wholesale liquor and wine shop in Virginia City.
Franks headstone is prominent in the
Silver Terrace Graveyard in VC. Frank made frequent trips between Amador and VC
as did Marie, who for a while was in partnership with another Frenchman in a
liquor biz in VC.
Frank bought out Marie when she moved back to the ranch in Amador County.
____________________________________________________________
Advertisement in the Virginia Evening Chronicle dated
Feb 25, 1885.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Marie Suize in Virginia City: The Story of Madam Pantaloon on the Comstock
by Eric J. Costa
While generally well known, and even
celebrated, by the residents of Amador County, California and its immediate
environs, Marie Suize better known as Madam Pantaloon has to date received
little attention from historians in other regions. Most of what has been
reported about her life has concentrated on what she did in California, prior
to coming to Virginia City in 1870. That she is one of the western mining
frontier’s most colorful characters, there can little doubt, but somehow her
story has been presented only in widely scattered sources.[1]
When we fully consider all the details, only then do her contributions to the
fabric of western history become apparent. In addition to being among the first female
placer miners, agriculturists, and winemakers in California, she is thought by
some to be among the earliest pioneers in the fight for women’s rights. Additionally, her story provides more texture
to the history of the Comstock, by helping to describing some of the less well
known 19th century citizens of Virginia City. Where did they come
from? Why were they there?
Marie Suize was born on July 14, 1824
in Thones, Haute Savoie, the mountainous region of eastern France. She first
arrived on the Pacific shore at San Francisco on November 24, 1850, a passenger
aboard the French ship La Ferriare. After living in Paris for a few years,
apparently under poor conditions, she learned of the discovery of gold in
California. Having heard that maids in
California were being paid vast sums of money, she decided to sail for
California. Two days after her arrival in San Francisco the Daily Alta California carried the
following item:
Our Streets yesterday presented quite
a picturesque appearance, from the advent of the French émigrés, arrived the previous day from Havre and Bordeaux. Both
males and females were remarkably cleanly dressed, and had the appearance of
belonging to a very respectable class of society. They “prospected” over the
city to a great extent[2].
According to Louis De Cotton who
spoke with Marie in Virginia City during the 1880s, Marie had been unable to
find work in San Francisco, so she cut her hair short, began wearing men’s clothing,
and headed for the gold fields of the Sierra foothills[3]. Apparently Marie met with some early
successes in the mines, because by 1855, she was the only female assessed for
property in the small mining town known as “The Gate,” north of Jackson, Amador
County. She also held mining ground at
the nearby placers on hills named French, Humbug, and Ohio. In 1860 she was still living at “The Gate,” and
operating a boarding house that was occupied mostly by French and French
Canadian miners. One of these French
miners was G. Andre Douet, who would later become Marie’s partner in the
acquisition of an agricultural property that eventually led both of them to a
nearly three decade long commercial association with Virginia City. Some believe that it was at Douet’s urging
that Marie came to California. Also residing
in the boarding house was Joseph Suize, a blacksmith, who was apparently
Marie’s brother. It is no coincidence
that Marie managed to find such a large contingent of French in Amador
County. The Southern Mines of the
California gold country became the region that attracted most of the foreign
born miners. In addition to miners from Mexico and Chile, there were large
numbers of men who were French, French Canadian, and Italian. Upon reaching the mines, these men would form
small companies that became involved in mining or agricultural ventures. It was
alongside these men that Marie, as the lone women, worked as a placer miner and
later a winemaker and grape grower.
In 1863, Marie’s mining partner G.
Andre Douet acquired a property known as the “Frenchmans Garden and Ranch”
located some five miles east of Jackson, Amador County. The property had
originally been claimed by another contingent of Frenchmen during the early
1850, and by the time Douet took possession, quite a few improvements had
already been made. In 1857, an Amador County newspaper carried the following
description of the property:
…in a little valley that comes into
the creek, is a perfect beauty of a place, it belongs to some Frenchmen and is
called Frenchmen’s Ranch. It is in a high state of cultivation and many of the
fruit trees are loaded with fruit. A new building is being erected here, and work
seems to be going on vigorously[4].
Just one month after Douet’s initial
purchase of the Frenchmen’s Ranch, he sold the property to Marie for $3000,
providing evidence that she had already accumulated considerable wealth from her
various mining properties. Although the ranch,
which also contained deposits of gold bearing gravel, now officially belonged
to Marie, her lifelong association with Douet had increased to a higher level.
Douet remained on the ranch with Marie, and they began planting more grapes and
advancing their winemaking efforts. Within a few years they had turned the
property into one of the premiere pioneer wineries and vineyards of Amador
County[5].
The first official production of wine, as ascertained from the IRS Tax Assessment
list of 1865, credits Marie Suize with the production of 1,200 gallons of wine.
By 1870, wine production had reached commercial levels, with some 5,000 gallons
being manufactured. That same year, Marie opened her first wine shop in
Virginia City, where she would continue to do business for nearly the next 20
years. According to an advertisement
appearing in the Territorial Enterprise
of October 27, 1870, California white and red wines, and distilled brandy, were
available at her shop located at No. 7, B Street (Mau’s Old Store)[6].
This address was located just north of
where John Piper’s Old Corner Bar and business block was eventually
established. Later that year, in a letter from Virginia City, the Amador Dispatch reported that Marie
Suzie, who was now being referred to as “Madam Pants,” had brought over a
quantity of wine and brandy of her own manufacture and opened a wholesale
liquor store.[7]
A detailed description of Marie’s
winery appeared in the Pacific Rural
Press that reported the following:
Mme. Marie Suize is the proprietress
of a 300-acre tract of land situated six miles east of Jackson, and is
cultivating some 30,000 vines and manufacturing about 12,000 gallons of wine
and 600 gallons of brandy annually. With a view to silk raising she is cultivating
3,000 mulberry trees. At this writing there are on hand at this ranch some
18,000 gallons of wine, from one to five years old. It is kept in twenty-four
800 gallon casks, manufactured from a species of black, live oak, cut, sawn,
manufactured upon the farm. Two large 3,000 gallon casks are used for making
the red wine. Five men are regularly employed[8].
Without the large population centered on the Comstock, and
the market it created, the production of the vineyard would have not been
increased as rapidly as it was. According to the census of 1870, named among
the five French laborers living on the ranch, was Frank Douet, a nephew of
Andre Douet, who would later relocated to Virginia City, where he worked along
with Marie in the wine shop.
By this time, Marie’s activities were
more and more, attracting the attention of the local press, especially after
she was arrested in San Francisco for appearing in public dressed in male
clothing. In April of 1871, the Territorial Enterprise contained the
following item:
It appears that Marie Suize, the
woman who was engaged in business for some months in this city, in male apparel
has been fined $5 in San Francisco by Judge Sawyer and required to doff her
masculine toggery and don the proper habiliments of her sex. In this city she
kept a wine store on B Street, where she sold the products of a large vineyard
owned by her in California. Soon after making her appearance here she applied
to the Board of Aldermen for permission to wear male attire. The matter was left
discretionary with the Chief of Police, he having authority to arrest her at
any time should he think proper. She was in business here for several months
and was never arrested. As in San Francisco, Marie Suize stated here that she
had dressed as a man for eighteen years, had worked in the mines with men in
Amador County, Cal., and had even made a trip to France and tarried for some
months in European countries dressed in male attire[9].
It is probably worth noting that in
the mining camps of the Sierra, as well as on the Comstock, Marie was able to
dress as she pleased, but it was only in San Francisco that she ran into
trouble. Societal norms in the mining
regions appear to have been much more relaxed than in the big city. Were the miners more accepting, or were
people too preoccupied with finding gold, and their own survival in a harsh
environment to care? There can be no doubt that a lot of the events that were
considered common place by Mother Lode or Comstock standards would have been
considered outrageous elsewhere.
As listed in a Virginia City business directory of 1873-74,
sometime in the interim, Marie had returned to the Comstock, this time
apparently for the long term, and had re-opened her wine shop at the northwest
corner of C and Mill Street. Back in Amador County, Andre Douet continued in
his duties as head grape grower and winemaker. Wine sales remained strong for
the remainder of the decade, with the Amador
Ledger in 1877 reporting:
Wine Shipment- One day last week A.
Douet of the Secreta ranch, near the Butte, shipped to Virginia City 3,000
gallons of wine. This ranks among the largest shipments ever made from Amador
county. Quite an extensive trade is carried on with the eastern slope of the
Sierras. Douet has for several seasons disposed of all the products in that
direction[10].
Again, the following year, the same
paper reported that Douet had shipped a carload, some 12 tons of wine to
Virginia City[11]. It was around this time, that Frank Douet, the
nephew of Andre, came to Virginia City to work as a bookkeeper and clerk with
Marie, the wine shop and residence having now relocated to 140 South C Street. By 1880 two additional Douet family members
had arrived to help sell wine. Frank Tabeaud, age 17, and Peter Tabeaud age 13,
both recent arrivals from Ruffec, France.
Reportedly both Marie Suize, and Andre Douet, dabbled
rather heavily in Comstock Mining stocks, each of them, apparently loosing
extremely large sums of money. These
stock losses may account for the fact that Marie sold the winery and vineyard
back to Andre in 1881. Further evidence
that Marie was greatly involved in mining stock speculation is the fact that
she is named as the appellant in the April 1887 Supreme Court of the State of
Nevada, L.B. Frankel & Co. v. Their Creditors[12]. In the census of 1880, Frankel’s occupation
is listed as a Virginia City stock broker.
Marie again relocated one last time,
around 1886, to 56 South C Street. This is where, in September of that same
year, she met with Louis De Cotton who published his Travers Le Dominion Et La Californie in Paris in 1889. In it he
gives great details of his visit to Virginia City, and an account of his
conversation with Marie. In a portion of De Cotton’s, work Marie explained that
it was in order to stop other miners from working the gold bearing gravels that
existed on her ranch, that it had first been planted to grape vines. She also
stated that she had lost some $150,000 investing in the mines of Virginia City!
Sometime in the late 1880s or early
1890s, Marie left Virginia City and returned to the ranch in Amador County,
where Andre was still growing grapes, making wine and mining for gold. It was there this remarkable woman died in
January of 1892 at the age of 68. Amazingly, her obituary stated that many in
Amador County knew her only by the name of “Madame Pantaloon.” She lies buried
in an unknown location In the Jackson Catholic Cemetery. Andre Douet remained
on the ranch and continued to mine and make wine until his death in 1904. In 1902, at the age of 80, Andre was still
successfully mining on his ranch, reportedly cleaning up some seven pounds of
gold worth $1500.[13] The previous year he had manufactured around
10,000 gallons of wine. Andre’s nephew, Frank, spent his entire life in
Virginia City, but would make occasional trips to California to help his aging
uncle with work on the ranch. Frank died in 1917, and his marked grave may be
seen in Virginia City’s Silver Terrace Cemetery. The Tabeaud boys both returned
in Amador County. Frank became involved in cattle-raising, and Peter drove a
brewery wagon and stagecoach.[14]
They also worked on their family ranch, which today lies beneath the waters of
a small reservoir know appropriately as Lake Tabeaud.
There is much evidence to suggest
that Marie made a lasting impression on many of those who met her. Shortly
after her death, the Territorial
Enterprise ran a piece, titled The Late Madame Suize: One of the Earliest
Pacific Coast Champions of Women’s Rights, a portion of which reads:
The late Madame Marie Suize who died
a year or more ago on her fruit ranch in Amador county, and was proprietress of
a wholesale wine and liquor store in this city for more than a quarter century,
was the first champion of women’s rights on the Pacific Coast as will be seen
from the following petition presented to the Board of Aldermen of this city on
Tuesday evening, September 14, 1870: The document prays that the petitioner may
be allowed to wear male attire …With the petition was a document bearing the
signature of the Clerk of the District Court of Amador county, given her to
serve as protection against arrest and the document speaks of her as an
industrious, virtuous women, possessed of valuable real estate in that county[15].
In the book, A Kid On The Comstock, containing reminiscences written by John Taylor Waldorf, the author
returned to Virginia City later in life, after have been a teenager there in
the late 1880s. In 1924, he wrote:
As I wandered back toward the Divide,
something not at all suggestive of schools caught my eye. On C Street, almost
in the shadow of the Corporation House, I saw an abandoned store with its iron
shutters tightly closed. Above the door I read J.B. Dazet, Wines and Liquors,
and my mind ran back to Madam Pantaloon, who used to sit there dozing, but
would wake up suddenly when you came in and draw you something from your
favorite wine barrel. Madam used to say a little good wine wouldn’t hurt
anyone. As a boy I took her word for it, and I still think she was right. [16]
Another mention of Marie can be found
in a 1936 issue of the Nevada State
Journal, in an article with the title “Old Verse Recalls Pioneers on the
Comstock.” It contains the reprint of a poem that had been written “many years
ago” by Jerome J, Quinlan. A caption
stated that hundreds of Nevadans whose families have lived on the Comstock will
recall some of the men and women mentioned. One verse contains the line:
Another old character…But bore a queer name –Madame Marie Pantaloon[17]
To this day, those few remaining old ranch
families that live along the South Fork of Jackson Creek, in close proximity to
where the Suize-Douet ranch and winery were located, continue to tell the Madam
Pantaloon story to family members and anyone interested in gold rush history[18].
Locals can even point out a prominence that until as recently as 40 years ago
was referred to as “Madam Pants Hill.”
Finally, in 1998, as part of the Gold
Discovery Sesquicentennial Celebration, a monument commemorating Marie Suize
was erected at the cemetery in Jackson. Most recently, Favia Winery has
released a 2006 Viognier called “Suize” that was chosen to honor Marie’s
“tireless spirit and dogged determination.” It is hoped that by presenting this history of Marie Suize,
that it may spark additional research, and perhaps someone in Nevada may turn
up the one item that has thus far remained undiscovered-a photograph of Madam Marie Suize.
[1]Larry Cenotto, Logan’s
Alley; Amador County Yesterdays In Pictures and Prose, (Jackson:Cenotto
1999), vol. 3, 133-135 and vol. 4, 16-25.
Susan G. Butruille, Women’s Voices From the Mother Lode,
(Boise:Tamarack 1998), 145-169.
J. D. Mason, History of Amador County, California with
Illustrations and Biographical Sketches, (Oakland:Thompson & West
1881), p.179 and p.181.
[2] Daily Alta
California (26 November 1850).p.3.
[3] Georges J. Joyaux, “An Excerpt From Louis De Cotton’s
A Travers Le Dominion Et La
Californie,”Nevada Historical Society Quarterly, 37:1 (Spring 1989), 53-70.
[4] Weekly Ledger (1
August 1857), p.3.
[5] Eric J. Costa,
Old Vines: A History of Winegrowing in
Amador County, (Jackson:Cenotto 1994), 19-21.
[6] Territorial
Enterprise (27 October1870), p.2. Mau is believed to be Albert Mau, who is known
to have had wholesale grocery businesses in San Francisco, and Austin, Hamilton,
and Virginia City Nevada.
[7] Amador Dispatch
(17 December 1870), p.3.
[8] Pacific Rural
Press (29 April1871), p.2.
In addition to Frank
Douet, those French laborers working in the vineyard and winery in 1870 were: Frank
Douet, Joseph Perillia, Frank Perillia, and John Larroseni.
[9] Territorial
Enterprise (12 April 1871), p. 3.
[10] Secreta is the name of a small mining camp that was
located adjacent to the Suize-Douet Ranch. It dates to the early 1850s, and was
originally settled by miners from Chile. The Butte, refers to a local landmark
known as Butte Mountain located between Jackson and the Suize-Douet ranch.
[11] Amador Ledger
(30 March 1878), p.3.
[12]Reports of Cases Determined in the Supreme Court of
the State of Nevada During 1887-1890, vol. 20, case # 1262, April 4,
1887., L.B. Frankel & Co. v. Their Creditors, Marie Suize, Appellant.
[13] Amador Ledger (12 February 1902), p.3.
[14] Amador Dispatch (22 February 1946), p.1.
[15] Territorial Enterprise (17 February 1894).
[16] John
Taylor Waldorf, A Kid on the Comstock:
Reminiscences of a Virginia City Childhood (Palo Alto:American West 1970),
180-181.
John B. Dazet is listed in the 1880 census as a native of France, operating liquor at 120 South C Street in
Virginia City. In an 1886-87 Business Directory, he is listed as Dazet &
Chatain liquors. His connection with Marie Suize, if any, is unknown.
[17] Nevada State Journal (25 October 1936), p.3.
[18] As
told to author by Amador County rancher, and local historian Carolyn Fregulia.
Fregulia’s family has resided in Amador County since the Gold Rush, and was
next door neighbors to the Suize-Douet Ranch.